باشگاه کوهنوردی سامان

^{The roof pitch, easier than it looks. El Capitan, Yosemite, California}

^{Above Texas Flake. El Capitan, Yosemite, California}

^{Jugging back to Sickle. Only 34 pitches to go !. El Capitan, Yosemite, California}

^{Like many, the pitch above Dolt Towe is crack climbing. El Capitan, Yosemite, California}

^{The first night is spent rather comfortably on Dolt Tower. El Capitan, Yosemite, California}

Nose

The Nose of El Capitan, Yosemite, is the first route climbed on a rock face of this scale, requiring on its first ascent 45 days of climbing over 18 months. Nowadays, it is still one of the most beautiful, classic, and sought after, rock climb in the world. Frank Levy and I climbed the Nose in April 1994 as our first multi-day big-wall. As the the climb turned out to be long, sustained, and exposed, it took us four very full days.

RESEARCH BY MEHRAB

نوشته شده در تاريخ پنجشنبه دوازدهم شهریور 1388 توسط باشگاه سامان |

تو-تو-كان

El Capitan is a 3,000 foot vertical rock formation in Yosemite Valley and Yosemite National Park. It is one of the most popular monoliths with rock climbers in the world.
The name "El Capitan" was a translation from the Native American name "To-to-kon oo-lah", which was named after "To-to-kon", a Paiute chief of the natives of the area.
The top of El Capitan can be reached by hiking out of Yosemite Valley on the trail next to Yosemite Falls, then proceeding west. For climbers, the challenge is to climb up the sheer granite face; there are dozens of named climbing routes, all of them long and difficult.
The most prominent part of El Capitan, the "Nose", was first climbed in 1958 by Warren J Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore after 47 days of actual climbing spread over seventeen months. The team used rope, pitons and expansion bolts to make it to the top, using aid climbing much of the way. The route was repeated in 1960 by Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost, who took seven days. The first ascent of the Nose in one day was accomplished in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay.

ديواره ال كاپيتان در واقع از يك كيلومتر گرانيت يكپارچه تشكيل شده و از يكي از معروفترين ديواره‌هاي سنگي جهان محسوب ميشه و بدليل سختي صعود در بين سنگ نوردان از محبوبيت خاصي برخوردار هستش. نام اين كوه، ترجمه واژه سرخپوستي ” تو-تو-كان اوو-لا “مي‌باشد كه در حقيقت از نام رئيس بزرگ سرخپوستان ناحيه (تو-تو-كان) گرفته شده است. براي رسيدن به بالاي اين ديواره مي‌توان از طريق دهكده يوسميتي و ازمسير كوهپيمايي واقع در كنار آبشار يوسميتي اقدام كرد و سپس به سوي غرب ادامه داد ويا اينكه يك كيلومتر ديواره عمودي را انتخاب نمود كه در اين حالت مسيرهاي فراواني براي صعود وجود دارند كه البته همگي داراي درجه سختي بالا مي‌باشند. شاخص‌ترين بخش ديواره ال كاپيتان نخستين بار در سال ١٩٥٨ ميلادي توسط وارن هاردينگ و همنوردانش پس از ٤٧ روز تلاش صعود شد. درسال ١٩٦٠ اين مسير در طي دو هفته توسط رويال رابينز و همنوردانش صعود شد و اولين صعود يك روزه ديواره نيزدر سال ١٩٧٥ توسط جان لانك و همنوردانش به ثبت رسيد